🗺️ How to Map Lashes

Lash mapping is more than just length and curl — it’s about designing a custom lash set that enhances your client’s eye shape, lash health, brows, and face structure.

Whether you're a beginner lash artist or refining your signature styles, this guide will walk you through how to lash map correctly using face analysis, lash line structure, and layering technique.

🧠 What Is Lash Mapping?

Lash mapping is the strategic placement of lash lengths, curls, and thicknesses along the eye — creating balance, symmetry, and style. It improves:

  • Speed & consistency

  • Styling precision

  • Client retention & satisfaction

📏 Pro Tip: Use under-eye pads to sketch your design directly during prep.

👁️ Step 1: Identify the Eye Shape

Each eye shape benefits from different lash map designs. First, ask:

  • Are the eyes almond, round, hooded, monolid, downturned, or close-set?

👇 Cheat Sheet:

Eye Shape Best Map Style Avoid
Almond Open Eye, Natural Too dramatic cat-eye
Round Cat-Eye, Squirrel Short spikes in inner corner
Hooded Squirrel, L Style Long curls on inner corners
Monolid Cat-Eye, Lifted Doll Heavy D curls on inner eyes
Close-Set Doll-Eye Long lashes near inner corners
Downturned Squirrel, Natural Lift Cat-eye (accentuates droop)

🧭 Step 2: Assess the Brows & Face Shape

🖼️ Brows act as an anchor for lash design. A soft brow suits wispy or open styles. A sharp arch supports bold, spiked mapping.

🧑🎨 For face shapes:

  • Round faces benefit from elongated cat-eye maps to slim the look

  • Square faces love symmetrical styles like doll-eye or open-eye

  • Heart shapes look great with a soft lift and shorter inner/outer corners

🔍 Step 3: Examine the Natural Lash Line

You must always lash within the client’s lash potential. Assess:

  • Length: Don’t apply anything longer than 3mm over the natural lash

  • Strength: Thicker bases can support volume fans

  • Density: Adjust the map based on layers and lash gaps

🪜 Step 4: Account for Lash Layers

Natural lashes grow in 3–5 layers, and each layer needs specific treatment.

Layering Tips:

  • Top Layer: Use longer lengths or spikes for texture and volume

  • Middle Layer: Build your base structure here

  • Bottom Layer: Go shorter for depth and natural blend

🎯 Pro Tip: Mix curls (e.g., C + D or D + L) to create depth and lift without overloading a single layer.

🧷 Step 5: Choose Curl, Length & Thickness

Curl Guide:

  • C Curl: Natural lift, great for beginners

  • CC Curl: A bit more drama

  • D Curl: Maximum lift for downward-facing lashes

  • L Curl: Ideal for hooded, monolid, or deep-set eyes

Thickness Guide:

  • 0.07 – Perfect for volume

  • 0.05 / 0.03 – Mega volume

  • 0.10 / 0.12 / 0.15 – Classic sets

  • Never exceed the strength of the natural lash

📐 Lash Mapping Example Templates

These are general layout examples. You’ll need to tweak based on individual lashes and styling.

1. Doll-Eye (Opens the Eye)

Great for small or close-set eyes

Section Lengths Example
Inner (1–2) 8–9 mm
Middle (3–4) 10–12 mm
Outer (5–6) 9–10 mm

2. Cat-Eye (Elongates the Eye)

Best for round or almond eyes

Section Lengths Example
Inner (1–2) 8–9 mm
Middle (3–4) 10–11 mm
Outer (5–6) 12–13 mm

3. Squirrel (Lift + Tapered Finish)

Good for hooded or downturned eyes

Section Lengths Example
Inner (1–2) 8–9 mm
Middle (3–4) 11–12 mm
Outer (5–6) 9–10 mm

🎨 Want these as stickers? Browse Lash Mapping Accessories

🧰 Must-Have Lash Mapping Tools

✔ Under Eye Pads
✔ Fine Tip Marker or Gel Pen
✔ Tweezers for Layer Isolation
✔ Lash Mirror to check symmetry mid-set

🧠 Pro Tips for Perfect Lash Maps

✔ Always start with your map before priming
✔ Use colored lashes or spikes for visual accents
✔ Double-check symmetry using a lash mirror
✔ If layering, stagger lengths across layers for texture
✔ Save your client’s map for refill consistency